Citysearch Editorial Review
By Amy Goetzman
Editorial Rating: Recommended
Excellent Mexican cooking with a creative twist served in a warm gallery space.
The Scene
The folks with run Taco Morelos must be worried, because once their customers discover
Salsa a la Salsa, things will thin out at that local institution. Salsa has something
Morelos doesn't; a really nice dining room. The long, narrow space ends with a toasty
fireplace. Bright, provocative art from Lake Street's Trujillo gallery hangs above the
notes on exposed-brick walls.
The Food
Expect fresh ingredients, traditional execution, and delicious combinations bedecked with
quasi fresco and savory sauces. Pupusas--cheese-- stuffed masa pancakes topped with
pico de gall, guacamole and tangy slaw of pickled vegetables--are a showy treat. Devil
Mary Chicken Wings come in excellent slow--burn pepper sauce that hinges of curry,
smoke and mole. Since the kitchen uses quality ingredients and doesn't skimp on flavor,
it's just a matter of choosing which way you wold like your tortillas, meats, cheeses and
veggies organized, but tender walleye tacos are the house specialty. |